, Planning and Design, Planting Tipsgail
Are you disappointed with the flowers you are getting – or not getting – from your big leaf (macrophylla) hydrangeas? Do you think it might be time to get some of the newer, better versions? But there are so many these days. How can a gardener cut through the hype and make the right choice? Let me help you clear up the fog.
I have been lucky enough to try many new hydrangea introductions over the past few years in my home garden. The property affords a variety of conditions from full shade to full sun and dry to soggy soil, all punctuated by roaming rabbits and deer. Fear not, however, there are clear favorites among the collection.
I learned long ago that big leaf hydrangeas which flower only on old wood are a big disappointment in my neck of the woods. Winter temperatures frequently get cold enough to kill the sleeping buds on old wood plants. So, when reblooming varieties came into the market in 2004, I celebrated their arrival. I soon discovered, however, that not all rebloomers are created equal. There are clearly dependable rebloomers in that group as well as some dogs.
Read on for the 411 on how these plants fared in my Zone 5B garden.
Without a doubt, Endless Summer® varieties are not only the pioneers in the reblooming category, but they also offer a long season of color including a stunning kaleidoscope of later season color.When planted in the protection of winter persistent foliage and/or structures and under the right conditions, you can count on early season color. But if you can’t give this plant that kind of protection, fear not as it will dependably push up new flowers before the season ends.
The more recent introductions like Bloomstruck®, Summer Crush®, and PopStar® produce more flowers sooner and continue to do so more quickly than their predecessors.
One of the big leaf hydrangea trials that showed great performance from the start was Let’s Dance Can Do!®. Usually, it takes a hydrangea one season in my garden to acclimate and get its mojo. Not this one! It flowered from the first season it was planted and has been a stunner ever since. I have it planted in more shade than sun and still get flowers. This year when many of my rebloomers have significant dieback, this one has none. What’s not to like?
The other options in the Let’s Dance® series that match this performance are Let’s Dance® Starlight and new Let’s Dance®¡Arriba!™ and Let’s Dance Sky View™.
Starfield™ Reblooming Hydrangea is another winner with star-shaped double flowers that cover the plant. Again, it didn’t need a season to settle in before flowering. And again, this season it had no top dieback.
Looking for hydrangeas that are bred to be pink? Then look to Ruby Blossom™. This is a mophead with sturdy stems and unique, fully double, dark pink flowers that engulf the plant. Those flowers contrast beautifully with the dark green foliage. Plus, its compact habit allows it to fit nicely into small spaces.
My experience with Blue Enchantress®is nothing less than superb. From day 1, this mophead macrophylla settled in quickly with flowers in its first season and has steadily flowered each and every season since. I can count on it to be a sea of blue flowers (in my acidic soil) with striking black stems.
Panicle Hydrangea
If you are a fan of panicle hydrangeas, I can attest to the fact that they are all stellar. They don’t rebloom, but they don’t need to as they flower on new wood. I especially like Flare™ hydrangea. It is hardy down to zone 3 with cone-shaped white flowers that develop into a deep red very quickly. The stems are strong on this very compact (2-3 feet tall and wide) plant, so it works in containers as easily as in the ground.
Serrata Hydrangea
The Serrata hydrangeathat you should definitely investigate is Tuff Stuff™. There are several versions for you to choose from and they are all superb. They flower dependably and rebloom throughout the season.
A growing note for you…
Generally speaking, the more sun you give your hydrangeas (even the big leaf), the stronger the stems will be. That has been my consistent experience with all the cultivars mentioned here and many others. Just keep an eye on soil moisture and use compost and mulch to improve moisture retention if necessary.
Time to go and find yourself some new hydrangeas. Happy shopping!
Written By:LorraineBallato
Author of:Success With Hydrangeas: A Gardener’s Guide
Learn more about Hydrangeas at…
- Year of the Hydrangea
- Blooming Hydrangeas Guaranteed!
- Hydrangea Danger Zone
- Preparing Your Hydrangeas for Winter
- Hydrangea Check-Up Time
- Hydrangea Pruning on Your Mind
- The Best Time to Prune Your Hydrangea
- 4 Hydrangea Myths Busted
- Ask The Experts about Hydrangea Webinar
- Shrubs for Cutting Gardens: Roses, Hydrangeas, and Other Long-Lasting Flowers
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2 comments. Leave new
Neil
May 20, 2023 12:14 am
I want pink Hydragneas. I understand that Lime is a good supplement to make that happen. How often? How much? Do I use 10-10-10 Rose fertilizer in addition because I do not think that Lime should be used alone? Or something else in Spring and then again in? I live in Ventura County in Southern CA which is between Los Angeles and Santa Barbara. Any other suggestions for these shrubs? Thank you,
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National Garden Bureau
May 24, 2023 4:53 pm
We asked Lorraine Ballato the author of this blog and this is her reply…
1.) I am assuming you have a big leaf (macrophylla) hydrangea. If it is another variety like a panicle, oak leaf, etc., color change isn’t an option.
2.) Assuming this is a big leaf or mountain (serrata) hydrangea, make sure your hydrangea is one that can change color (not all of them can). If you lost the tag, check w/your local independent garden center or local extension office. They can often help solve the mystery.
3.) If your plant can change color, then do a soil test to check the pH of your soil. Pink flowers need a pH above 7 for the best pink color.
4.) To move up on the pH scale, you add pelletized lime. Follow the directions on the package label for how much to add and how to add it.
5.) Plan to re-test your soil to keep that pH reading where you need it. Soil will always revert to its natural state, so be prepared to continually test and amend in the future.
6.) It takes the plant time to integrate the amendment so plan to add it in the autumn for the color change in the following season.
7.) If your hydrangea is planted adjacent to a cement walk or a structure/house foundation, be aware that the lime from that hardscape will leach into the soil and influence the pH (raise it) so you may be able to take advantage of that placement.
I don’t recommend any fertilizer that has equal amounts of the 3 key nutrients. No plant uses nutrients in the same amount and when you use a “balanced” fertilizer like 10-10-10, you contribute to run-off and pollution. Rose food is ideal as a fertilizer for your hydrangeas (as well as other shrubs). Compost is also a helpful amendment as it provides microbes and aids in moisture retention.
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